| POR-15 FUEL TANK SEALER INSTRUCTIONS |
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Almost all fuel tanks are dirty and have to be cleaned out before
sealing. It is very difficult to see the dirt and contamination
inside the tank, but it’s there. In English, we call this bad stuff
“gum and varnish”, and it’s almost always invisible to the naked
eye. If you try to seal a tank without cleaning it first, the new
coating will probably fail, because tank sealer won’t stick to gum
and varnish. Here’s how to clean out a 25 gallon fuel tank:
Step
1. Mix 1 quart of Marine-Clean with 1 quart of very hot water
and pour it into the tank GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION
SHOULD BE WORN AT ALL TIMES.
Shake the tank, then place it in a different position every 2 hours
so the solution can cover all inside surfaces. When all surfaces
have been subjected to the cleaning solution, shake it again,
then dump out the tank, rinse it with water, dump out the water,
and start all over again. The first time you dump the solution, it’ll
be very dirty; after the second solution has been discarded, the
tank should be clean. Rinse the tank out with fresh hot water,
drain thoroughly, then pour in the full container of Metal-Ready.
Step
2. With the Metal-Ready in the tank, again shake, then place the
tank in different positions every half hour until the entire inside of
the tank has been treated with Metal-Ready. Then rinse the tank
thoroughly with hot water several times and drain it. In order to
get the tank completely dry, you must blow warm air into it for a
long time. No tank will dry out on the inside by itself. The only
way to do this job is to use forced air. TANKS MUST BE COMPLETELY
DRY INSIDE BEFORE SEALING. THE SEALER
WILL NOT STICK TO A DAMP OR WET TANK.
Step
3. Pour in the entire can of fuel tank sealer and “roll” the tank
around so that all surfaces come in contact with the sealer.
Then drain for at least 30 minutes to ensure that sealer has not
“puddled” in tank. After you’ve done this, dump out the left-over
sealer back into the can, but DON’T PUT THE LID BACK ON
THE CAN TIGHTLY OR IT MAY EXPLODE! Leave the can
open and it will harden overnight. Then throw it out the next day.
Allow 72 - 96 hours for sealer to dry. Air dry tank in a well-ventilated
area. Maximum cure will be reached in 96 hours. Setup
time can be improved by using a low pressure blower or hair
dryer (low or no heat) and circulating it through one hole in tank
and out another.
PATCHING
The best time to add patches on the outside of the tank is when
you have finished drying the tank after using Metal Ready, when
the holes in the tank are too big to be sealed by the sealer alone.
Here’s how you do this: Paint the area where the hole is with
POR-15, then place a piece of reinforcing fabric into the paint.
Now paint the cloth outward from the center with more POR-
15. The next day or 5 hours later, paint it again. You have now
sealed the tank from both the inside and the outside.
And remember, whenever you want to seal a tank, you must
use Metal-Ready on the inside and/or the outside, because the
adhesion must be perfect. After the tank is sealed, wait at least
5 days before putting fuel into it.
OLD SEALER
Sometimes you will be asked how to seal a tank that was sealed
years ago with some other sealer that has now failed. In this
case, you must use our paint stripper first to remove that old
sealer, and a gallon of stripper should do it properly. First, pour
in about a quart of stripper and let it work on each inside surface. The tank
may need to be stripped up to 4 times to do the job completely. The old finish
may come loose in chunks or pieces or strips, so a long tweezer typetool is helpful for removal. After the stripping job is done,
the tank should be rinsed out with hot water and then cleaned
with Marine-Clean. This is not easy work, but it’s the only way
to do the job right. People who follow our directions perfectly
always get a perfect job, no exceptions. Special care must be
taken to make sure the sealer doesn’t clog up feeder lines or
other tubes inside the tank, and the tank must be propped before
drying so the sealer doesn’t “puddle” in places where it could
cause problems.
WHO USES FUEL TANK SEALER?
People who restore, rebuild, or repair cars, boats, or other
vehicles; companies with fuel storage tanks; non-restoration
people who have fuels tanks in need of repair.
WHAT ARE SOME TYPICAL PROBLEMS REQUIRING NEED
OF SEALER?
A. Tanks may be very rusty inside due to years of non-use.
B. Tanks may have gunk or caked sludge inside, which must
be removed and the tank walls must then be coated.
C. Tanks may have pinhole leaks or leaking seams.
D. Tanks may have a combination of the above.
CAN MY TANK BE TREATED WITHOUT HAVING TO REMOVE
IT FROM MY CAR?
Usually not. Occasionally a tank will have a small leak on
the bottom which can be treated without removal, but this is the
exception. Proper fuel tank sealing almost always requires tank
removal from the vehicle.
YOU CLAIM US STANDARD FUEL TANK SEALER IS “THE
BEST FUEL TANK SEALER MONEY CAN BUY”. WHY IS IT
BETTER THAN THE OTHERS?
It’s better because it seals pinholes and seams far better than
any other sealer and has great intrinsic film strength, which
the others do not have. Its film coating is non-porous, keeping
moisture permanently away from metal, and in this way prevents
future rusting.
POR 15 INC